A conventional segmentation approach for skincare and beauty brands relies on consumers’ current needs. People with dry skin get targeted with inducements to buy serious moisturizers; those struggling with acne might receive coupons for products with salicylic acid; and aging consumers often see personalized advertisements for eye creams or overnight lotions that contain retinol. In addition to reflecting the desires of these consumers to obtain solutions that help them look better, this segmentation philosophy is need-based. A consumer with oily skin should not use products formulated to overcome dryness for example.

For most consumers, these sorts of personalized targeting efforts make sense. But some consumers go in the other direction, purposefully and perhaps recklessly seeking out offerings that were never designed for them. That type of behavior is the defining trait of a newly identified group of consumers, referred to on TikTok by the hashtag #sephorakids. These preteen shoppers make a habit of hanging out in physical beauty retail shops, such as Sephora and Ulta, where they trial, experiment with, and purchase skincare products that were formulated for much older people.

Notably, any 10-year-old kid likely lacks the consumer sophistication needed to fully understanding advertising messages. That is, perhaps they simply misunderstand the purpose of antiaging creams that contain relatively harsh acids, designed to address concerns like age spots and wrinkles. But their purchasing habits also might result from arguably irresponsible marketing. These young shoppers have nearly constant access to influencers, many of whom make their skincare routines central to their content. Having watched innumerable beauty experts and influencers spread series of serums, toners, creams, and oils onto their faces, perhaps they believe that everyone should be doing the same, even at their young age.

In turn, some brands are actively catering and marketing to these young shoppers, as part of their constant efforts to expand into new markets and grow their market share. Even if preteens should not be using retinol, brands such as e.l.f. and Bubble stock other formulations that they say can improve the skin texture of young users. The Yawn brand even markets its products as appropriate for children as young as 3 years of age. As detailed by a beauty industry researcher, “I’m also increasingly seeing girls younger than teens using adult products…. From a business perspective, the marketing is there; these younger age groups are actively being targeted.”

In addition to concerns about the risks and implications for young users—including that they are being overly sensitized to worry about their looks and that they might cause real damage to their skin by using harsh products on it—other issues arise with regard to their behaviors while in stores. The thousands of TikTok videos with the #sephorakid hashtag mostly represent complaints about the inconsiderate, entitled, and downright rude behaviors displayed by the preteen shoppers. Employees tell stories of being treated rudely when they tell girls that they are out of stock of new product releases by popular brands such as Drunk Elephant. They also post videos displaying the mess left behind by the children, with spilled serums, ruined lip glosses, and carved up eyeshadow samples. In addition, regular shoppers express their near shock at being “bullied” by kids in the store who try to cut the checkout line, comment on their looks or age, or snatch desired products out of their hands.

Such anecdotes suggest a deeply unpleasant shopping experience for many consumers and retail employees. But other evidence indicates that there is little chance that the retail stores will seek to put a stop to the preteens’ behaviors: Recent market analyses predict that the baby and child skincare market will grow at a nearly 8 percent annual rate, to reach an estimated $380 million in market value.

Discussion Questions

1. How would you explain the growing use of skincare products, designed for older age segments, among young consumers? What do you think is the most influential driver of this consumption behavior?
2. What should retailers do in response to such developments, if anything? Should their goal be to sell to new customer segments, protect the enjoyable shopping experience of existing customers, or something else?

Sources: Mia Taylor, “‘Sephora Kids’ and the Booming Business of Beauty Products for Children,” BBC, January 22, 2024; #sephorakids, TikTok; Statista, “Baby and Child Skin Care–Worldwide,” October 2023, https://www.statista.com/outlook/emo/beauty-personal-care/skin-care/baby-child-skin-care/worldwide.